This week’s Cellar Journal features;
four of the most exhilarating wines to cross our desks in the past year.  

Each demonstrates just how incredible wine can be when winemakers have an almost limitless wealth of resources at their disposal and are asked to make ‘simply the best’.

2009 TOM Chardonnay is probably the greatest luxury Chardonnay ever made in New Zealand,  already Bob Campbell MW has rated it higher than any other Chardonnay ever, except Neudorf Moutere 2007 which he gave an equal score. 

2008 Penfolds Bin 407 Cabernet is considered the best since the inaugural 1990, and if carefully cellared will deliver drinking rewards undreamed of for the price. 

From the Antinori family the most important winemakers in Tuscany for 26 generations (over six hundred years), we have secured allocations of each of the family’s greatest red and white wines.

2007 Antinori Tignanello is the greatest vintage ever of ‘the original Super-Tuscan’ along with Solaia, Marchese Piero Antinori’s flagship red.

2010 Rams Hill Sauvignon Blanc is the flagship white from the company that Piero established with his brother Marchese Lodovico, after the latter sold his prestigious Tenuta dell’Ornellaia estate. 

Sold almost exclusively to the world’s greatest restaurants, only 10-dozen bottles are offered for sale in New Zealand.  FWDC have the entire allocation and offer it to you on a first reply basis.

(more…)

“The Insight Series” 2009 Vintage Release

“They should be at the heart of any serious international cellar collection – make sure they’re in yours before they disappear.” – Jeff

 
We are pleased to offer the greatest set of releases ever from Larry McKenna, dubbed “The Prince of Pinot” by James Halliday.  The 2009 ‘Insight Series’ release includes one of New Zealand’s best Burgundy-style Chardonnays, a trio of stunning single-vineyard, mature-vine Pinots and 2009 Kupe, the best New Zealand Pinot Noir we’ve ever tasted.
 
Larry McKenna is New Zealand’s greatest Pinot Noir winemaker.  In 2008 he was awarded The George Fistonich Medal honouring him as a ‘Legend of New Zealand Wine’.  The convenors said “For more than two decades, winemaker Larry McKenna has produced many of this country’s most revered wines. The Burgundian varieties of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are his passion and it is through his master of the red grape that he has affectionately become known as ‘Mr Pinot Noir.”

“The Insight Series” are his Burgundy-style collection of single-vineyard Pinot Noir and Chardonnay applying twenty six vintages of experience to making wines that truly reflect the terroir of their individual sites.  The wines allow for individual vineyard expression from exceptional sites utilising some of the oldest vines in the district.

Bob Campbell MW says; “To say that Larry McKenna is passionate about Pinot Noir is an understatement. McKenna led the way, with the help of a few other single-minded winemakers, in transforming New Zealand Pinot Noir from a pleasant red wine to an artform.” With the “Insight Series”, Larry has taking his craft to a whole new level.

Larry first released this collection of single vineyard wines from the 2006 vintage on which veteran wine critic Geoff Kelly commented; “Larry McKenna has been thinking deeply about pinot noir in New Zealand for a full 23 vintages now, and it shows. Many regard him as the champion New Zealand pinot maker.  Underneath his love for the grape, is the almost unstated goal of producing a wine that is not only varietal pinot noir, but also captures the magic of and can be confused with, some of the great wines of Burgundy.  These four wines therefore reflect a kind of coming of age for New Zealand pinot noir.”

At the same time Robert Parkers Wine Advocate also said; “Larry McKenna is a legend in Martinborough, indeed throughout New Zealand, the man who steered Martinborough Vineyards to international acclaim. This is an impressive array of wines.”

The 2009 “Insight Series” release is by far his best; the result of what Wine Spectator Magazine describe as “the best year of the decade” and further evolution in Larry’s understanding of each of the sites.

In Larry’s hands each of the individual vineyard sites give very different wines with their own special characteristics.  We’ve presented them in order from most elegant to biggest and briefly describe their unique style and character at the beginning of each wine review

Escarpment ‘Pahi’ Martinborough Pinot Noir 2009

94/100 Five Stars Bob Campbell MW  “Serious Pinot Noir that will age well”

19.5-/20 Five Stars Raymond Chan “A wine of sheer aromatic beauty.”

‘Pahi’ is grown on slightly heavier soils resulting in an elegant style Pinot Noir.  From a single clone on own roots this is a remarkably pure Pinot – “soft, silken, fragrant and perfumed.” 

“Stronger sweet cherry and plum fruit flavours than in the Kiwa label. Attractive sweet fruit interwoven with subtle savoury characters. Moderately complex wine – serious Pinot Noir that will age well. Quite supple and elegant.” Bob Campbell MW

“This has a beautifully aromatic and fragrant nose. On palate, this has genuine elegance, with a succulent core. The extraction is fine and silken textures are a feature.  A wine of sheer aromatic beauty.” Raymond Chan

This wine was grown on the McCreanor Vineyard Princess Street, Martinborough from twenty eight year old vines one of the oldest Pinot Noir vineyards in the district. It was fermented in traditional open-top wooden cuves, hand plunged, with a total vat time of eighteen days. After pressing it was matured in thirty percent new French oak barriques for twelve months, then lightly egg white fined before bottling.

This subtly powerful Pinot will reward careful cellaring through to 2024.

  

Escarpment Te Rehua Pinot Noir 2009

93/100  Five Stars  Bob Campbell MW  “Big, dense Pinot Noir …I like it.”

19/20  Five Stars Raymond Chan  “This is a big, soft textured, fleshy wine.”

“Te Rehua” is made from a blend of many clones grown on classic Martinborough deep gravels which give power and complexity while the vineyard’s sheltered location results in a long growing season, giving depth and intensity – “Dense, deep, balanced and complete”.

“Big, dense Pinot Noir with an almost chewy texture and layers of ripe fruit, chocolatey oak and savoury characters. Powerful, generously proportioned wine with strong sweet fruit and impressive length. Begs for a bit more bottle age. I like it.” Bob Campbell MW

“This is a big, soft textured, fleshy wine with plenty of fruit weight. A very full, robust and powerful nose. The palate is full-bodied and has a roundness to the full structure and extraction. There is a sweet plush aspect that adds to the richness.”  Raymond Chan

This wine was grown on the Barton Vineyard, Huangarua Road from vines over twenty three years old. It was fermented in traditional open-top wooden cuves; hand plunged with a total vat time of twenty four days. After pressing it was matured thirty percent new French oak barriques for twelve months, then lightly egg white fined before bottling.

This dense, complete Pinot will reward careful cellaring through to 2009.

 

Escarpment ‘Kiwa’ Martinborough Pinot Noir 2009

19+/20  Five Stars Raymond Chan “A wine of dimension and substance.”

90/100  Bob Campbell MW “Quite Burgundian in style”

90/100  Stephen Tanzer  ”Concentrated, pliant, lush wine…”

‘Kiwa’ from some of New Zealand’s oldest vines, grown on the classic Martinborough deep gravel soils is a classic Martinborough Pinot in the big, bold style with added complexity from a blend of clones – “Rich, Burgundian, savoury and complex”.

“Interesting savoury, wild herb characters with red cherry and floral notes. Quite Burgundian in style both in terms of flavor profile and structure.” Bob Campbell MW

“A rich, voluminous, aromatic bouquet of very dark berry fruits combined with savoury spices and nuances of violetty florals that add a fresh lift. Medium-full bodied with a very dense core of red and savoury, game and herb-like fruit flavours.  A wine of dimension and substance.” Raymond Chan

“Very ripe. Smooth and savory in the mouth, with a restrained sweetness.   Concentrated, pliant, lush wine with a sweet, palate-coating finish featuring surprising delineation.” Stephen Tanzer

This wine is made from twenty eight year old vines grown on the Cleland Vineyard, Cambridge Street. It was fermented in traditional open top wooden cuves; hand plunged with a total vat time of nineteen days. After pressing it was matured in thirty percent new French oak barriques for twelve months, then lightly egg white fined before bottling.

This outstanding, classic Martinborough Pinot Noir is ideal with game food will continue to improve through to 2019.

Escarpment ‘Kupe’ Martinborough Pinot Noir 2009

95/100  Five Stars  Bob Campbell MW  “Terrific wine with a great future”

19.5/20 Five Stars Raymond Chan  “…class all the way.”

Five Star Label  Michael Cooper’s Buyers Guide 2011

We believe that this is the best Pinot Noir ever made in New Zealand! 

From our comprehensive tastings of around 5000 wines a year this is the best New Zealand Pinot Noir we’ve ever tasted, better than any vintage of Felton Road Block 3 or 5, Ata Rangi, Marie Zelie, or Daniel Schuster Omihi.

The first release of Kupe was in 2003 which quickly established this wine as a New Zealand classic and positioned Escarpment at the vanguard of New World Pinot Noir production.  Decanter Magazine said “McKenna’s first Pinot Noir from his new vineyard, Kupe 2003, strongly endorses his faith in the area. This first taste of success combined with McKenna’s past form has created high expectations for this new producer.”

As Wine Enthusiast said back in 2007; “Since its debut in 2003, this has been one of New Zealand’s top Pinot Noir’s, combining power, structure and complexity.” The 2009 rockets Kupe to the very top of the New Zealand Pinot Noir pyramid.

Kupe 2009 has received a near perfect score from leading wine critic and judge Raymond Chan, and is one of Bob Campbell MW’s very highest scoring Pinots ever.  Larry McKenna, described by James Halliday as the “Prince of Pinot” has now produced a mind-blowingly good Pinot Noir worthy of his title.

“Quite dense yet supple wine with savoury, nutty, plum and spicy oak with a hint of wild herb character. Very complex wine with strong sweet tannins that are nicely managed by strong sweet fruit. Terrific wine with a great future. A very individual style.” Bob Campbell MW

“An exceptionally refined, satin-textured tannic structure.  The finish is long and lingering. The wine displays a combination of refinement and complexity that should enable it to develop extremely well over the next 7-10+ years, showing class all the way.” Raymond Chan

From Escarpment’s close planted vineyard on Te Muna Road. Established from the outset to grow New Zealand’s greatest Pinot Noir, this is one of highest density vineyards in the country with 6700 vines/ha, around three times that of an average Kiwi vineyard.  these densities are more similar of those of Burgundy, from where the inspiration for this wine comes. 

Fermented in wooden French cuvees, hand plunged and aged in fifty percent new French oak barriques the wine was given every priority during its elevage and now shows all the hallmarks of a grand young wine on its release in 2011. The season was exemplary in Martinborough with a warmer than average, dry summer allowing perfectly ripe fruit to be harvested in April 2009.

This wine, at the vanguard of New World Pinot Noir will age gracefully through to 2029. 

 

Escarpment ‘Kupe’ Martinborough Chardonnay 2009

94/100 Five Stars Bob Campbell MW  “…both complex and texturally exciting”

19-/20 Five Stars  Raymond Chan  “…similar to classic Puligny-Montrachet.”

This is at the pinnacle of New Zealand Chardonnay style.  It sits alongside a mere handful of wines including Neudorf Moutere, Felton Road Block 2, Te Whau, Kumeu River Mates, and Fromm Clayvin that form a rarefied group of New Zealand’s greatest Burgundian-style Chardonnays.

2009 is the second and best vintage of Kupe Chardonnay.  It’s  described by leading wine critic and judge Raymond Chan as “A refined white burgundy style similar to classic Puligny-Montrachet”, and is one of Bob Campbell MW’s highest scoring Chardonnays ever.

“Attractive wine that’s both complex and texturally exciting. It’s a big wine with ginger, spice, bread crust/brioche, toasted nut and grapefruit/citrus flavours. Bone-dry and richly textured with a lengthy finish.” Bob Campbell MW

“A wine of elegance with understated power underlining the palate. Very fine textures with subtle layers of nutty, minerally flavours that are brought into focus and attention by excellent acidity. A refined white burgundy style similar to classic Puligny-Montrachet.” Raymond Chan Entirely from the Burgundy clone 95 which gives low-yields of flavour concentrated grapes, grown on  ‘McCreanor’ vineyard fully barrel fermented thirty percent new oak with high solids, given one hundred percent malolactic fermentation and matured twelve months on lees in barrel before being bottled in April 2010.

This elegant, concentrated and mineral chardonnay will age gracefully through to 2019.

 

Escarpment Pahi Pinot Noir 2009

The theme of old vines continues with Pahi, sourced from vines nearing 30 years of age it’s a Pinot of incredible aromatic expression and complex layers of flavour. The nose offers a virtual potpourri of spring/wild flowers, rich black fruits, fragrant spices and forest floor characters.12 month’s maturation in fine French oak has given the wine an immaculately graceful feel and milk chocolate like texture which is punctuated by silky fine tannins with a mouth watering lick of tamarillo/sweet cherry infused acidity completing the experience. Unbelievably approachable now this impressive new world style will be very hard to keep ones hands off but will reward careful cellaring of 10 – 15 years, Enjoy. FWDC Review

Cellar Journal Price – $59.90

Escarpment Kiwa Pinot Noir 2009

Crafted from the now legendary Cleland vineyard (28 year old vines) from a selection of different clones Kiwa Pinot Noir stands out for its enticing mix of sweet and savoury characters. Its love at first smell on the nose; aromas of black fruits, Truffles, nutmeg and spices… so tantalising, so alluring. The juicy fleshy layers of the palate will take the drinker to textural Zen while the concentration of dark chocolate, sweet spices/black fruits will echo on your taste buds for minutes. Try Kiwa with wild Venison or Duck for a sensational Pinot Noir experience now and through 2020+ Cheers. FWDC Review

Cellar Journal Price – $59.90

Escarpment Te Rehua Pinot Noir 2009

This strikingly aromatic effort announces its presence with its fragrant amalgam of sweet berry fruits, complex spice characters (cinnamon and nutmeg) and delicate floral tones. It’s an impressively rich and generous style and pervades the senses with flavours of back plums, blackberry, malt and chocolate set on a blanket of svelte silken oak and sweet juicy sensations. Like the Pahi you can easily contemplate life over a bottle with game inspired cuisine although the rewards of patience will be given to those who choose to indulge between 8 and 10 years of age, Cheers! FWDC Review

Exclusive Cellar Journal Price – $59.90

Escarpment Kupe Pinot Noir 2009

Kupe is the zenith of Larry McKenna’s mind blowing insight series wines; sourced from a vineyard that is planted with the same density of Grand Cru burgundy but is cropped at lower levels. This is meditation Pinot Noir! From the moment you smell the wines your senses become engulfed in all things Pinot. Fragrant spices, complex floral notes, earthy tones, forest floor and savoury characters, everything you would expect from Grand cru Burgundy, tight nit and wound not yet willing to reveal its secrets as individual characters.  Rich, polished with deep fleshy layers punctuated by compact coco powder tannin with a distinct mineral back bone and mind blowing acid balance it is without doubt one the finest Pinot Noir vinified in the history of NZ, Be sure to secure this piece of history! Cheers. FWDC Review

Cellar Journal Price – $76.90

Escarpment Kupe Chardonnay 2009

Kupe represents the pinnacle of Escarpments and indeed NZ’s chardonnay production offering an insight to the potential of Martinborough’s unique Terriors. One must take a minute when assessing the incredibly vast array of aromas that rise from this inspiring effort.  Notes of ripe citrus, peach and honeycomb come first while hints of almonds, sizzled butter, minerals and baking spices offer support from beneath. The rich mealy layers and finely creamed sensations of the palate house a core of perfectly ripe fruit and complex mineral tones which adds buoyancy and freshness to every sip of this Chardonnay masterpiece. Try one bottle now over dinner for Chardonnay Nirvana and then indulge at your leisure through 2018 – 12, Enjoy! FWDC Review

Cellar Journal Price – $49.90

To order these wines email: wine@finewinedelivery.co.nz

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