FWDC Cellar Journal – 5 New Classics – Great Terroir Wines Of New Zealand

Posted by Andie on March 15, 2011. Category: Cellar Journal Exclusive — Tags: Chardonnay, New Zealand, Pinot Noir, Terroir

Essential buying for any serious collector!

New Zealand wine has come a long way since the first French varieties were seriously planted in the late 1960’s and the South Island pioneered in the early 1970’s. Since then we’ve become world famous for Sauvignon Blanc, and respected among international critics for our aromatic whites and Pinot Noir. As Lisa Perotti Brown MW said in her report on New Zealand wine in Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate last year; “When I compared recent vintages against even the icons of the past, it was tangible that New Zealand’s wines have advanced at an incredible pace.”

The most exciting advance in the past ten years has been the quest for terroir. Our best winemakers are searching for, discovering and making wine from special, specific sites that result in wines of wonderful quality and special character.

Sites like Esk Valley’s Terraces Vineyard, Kumeu River’s Mate’s Vineyard and Felton Road’s individual ‘Blocks’ have long been recognized for their ability to produce superior quality and individuality, and in the past fifteen years, new sites have been discovered and developed that produce similarly exciting results.

From The Fine Wine Delivery Company team’s tastings of over five thousand wines per year, we have been paying careful attention to these small-site, expressions of specific terroir, and today we are pleased to offer you five of the absolute best, from five different grape varieties and five different New Zealand wine regions.

These wines aren’t from the established classic producers, like Kumeu River, Te Mata, Ata Rangi or Neudorf; rather, they’re the new classics – names that will roll off New Zealand wine lover’s tongues in the same way over the next ten years.

Of course, they are all from special sites, from Nick Nobilo’s warm Vinoptima vineyard, through Dog Point’s special old-vine, heavy-soiled ‘Section 94’ block, Mountford’s gently-sloping limestone vineyard, Rudi Bauer’s steep, quartz, Bendigo hillside, to Man O’ War’s super-steep Waiheke vineyard allocated to their remarkable Dreadnought Syrah.

However, as with all great terroir, the vineyard’s true potential is only realised through a lot of dedication, hard work and commitment to quality. These wines are all grown and made by men and women passionately determined to craft the finest expressions of their special sites. They all crop low, hand harvest, and make their wines using the best of modern and traditional European methods.

The wines are all remarkable, including New Zealand’s best Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah that would be in anyone’s top five or ten from their respective vintage. Their quality is recognised by our tasting team and by leading New Zealand and international wine critics.

They are all fine additions to any collection of the best New Zealand wines, drinking beautifully now, but with the ability to improve considerably with careful cellaring. We recommend collecting as much of them as you can, to enjoy and celebrate New Zealand’s greatest terroir – and to impress your overseas guests.

To order email wine@finewinedelivery.co.nz

Vinoptima Gewürztraminer 2006

94/100 – Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate “This was a stunning expression of Gewurztraminer”
93/100 – Bob Campbell MW “Classy wine from a Gewürztraminer specialist.”
Five Stars – Michael Cooper’s Buyer’s Guide “The lovely 2006 vintage is mouthfilling and rich…”

“Classy wine from a Gewürztraminer specialist. It has power with restrained and rather complex flavours. Not a showy fruit bomb but a sophisticated statement that has aged well and is probably close to optimum drinking. Suave, focused wine with a great texture.” Bob Campbell MW

“This was a stunning expression of Gewürztraminer, the wine adopting an Alsatian style rather than anything from the New World.” Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate

“New Zealand wine pioneer makes outstanding Gewürztraminer–and that’s it.” Wine Spectator

“Very nice rose petal aromas and a nice tight structure. Racy and nicely tightly laced.” Jancis Robinson MW

“The lovely 2006 vintage is mouthfilling and rich, with notable delicacy, spiciness, concentration and harmony.” Michael Cooper’s Buyer’s Guide

New Zealand wine industry pioneer Nick Nobilo sought out his special terroir for the specific purpose of making what Jancis Robinson MW describes as “the country’s best Gewürztraminer.” As she says; “New Zealand is one of the few countries that can claim to have established its perfect spot for Gewürztraminer. Wines such as Nick Nobilo’s Vinoptima are designed to take advantage of this by showing Gewurz at its most concentrated and distinctive.”

Nick Nobilo sold what he built to be the New Zealand’s largest family winery in 2000. When he retired, he felt he had “unfinished business” – he never had the time or resources to focus on Gewürztraminer, his favourite variety and one he felt could be a big success for New Zealand.

“The whole purpose is that I wanted to produce a world-class Gewürztraminer,” says Nobilo. “Sauvignon Blanc out of Marlborough is now regarded as the best example of that variety in the world. Here I’m trying to produce a grand cru-class Gewürztraminer to show the world that we can do it.”

After forty years in the wine industry Nick knew exactly where to find the terroir to make New Zealand’s best terroir. The Vinoptima Estate is a small 9.7 hectare vineyard that lies in a unique microclimate at Ormond, 26 kilometres from the Gisborne coast. As well as possessing the alluvial soils ideal for the vines, the Ormond vineyard microclimate is hotter and drier than the cooler growing climate of the coast, producing an unusually high intensity in aromatic varieties – perfect for the Vinoptima Estate’s Gewürztraminer grapes.

The tiny vineyard is divided into two blocks of roughly equal size. The original South block was planted in 2000 and the new North block was planted in 2007. The newer block is characterised by near identical soil composition and structure and if anything, is slightly warmer and drier than the original block.

Nick believes deeply that the best wines are grown in the vineyard, so he planted with the very best clones, selected from working with the variety for 25 years. A lot goes into reducing vine vigour and yields to ensure optimum concentration, depth and longevity.

The wine is made like no other Gewürztraminer in New Zealand. The grapes are hand picked, hand sorted and hand destemmed, and then very gently pressed so only the finest juice is extracted. Part of the juice is fermented in stainless steel tanks kept at a cold temperature, and part in 1,200-liter German oak barrels.

It tastes like no other Gewürztraminer either. Nick Nobilo describes the 2006 as “the spicy vintage” – it’s essence of Gewurz, with pure spice, floral and ripe citrus flavours enveloped in a dense, concentrated palate. An essential addition to the cellar of any serious wine collector.

Released when first ready at five years old, it will continue to improve with careful cellaring through to 2016.

Dog Point Section 94 Sauvignon Blanc 2009

The newly released 2009 Section 94 hasn’t been reviewed by the critics yet, but our tasting team believes it to be the equal of the 2006 vintage which Robert Parkers Wine Advocate rated 94/100 saying “The 2006 Section 94 Sauvignon Blanc is candidate for New Zealand’s best Sauvignon Blanc.”

“Emphasis on the vineyards, and use of indigenous yeast aren’t the only things that define their edges – the wines are simply superb.” Lisa Perotti Brown MW, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate

“Dog Point has been an immediate success.” Bob Campbell MW

“These wines, such as Dog Point Section 94 and Cloudy Bay Te Koko are magnificent” Jane Skilton MW

After helping to put New Zealand on the world wine map as the winemaker and viticulturist, respectively, of Cloudy Bay, James Healy and Ivan Sutherland established Dog Point in 2002. As Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate says; “Since debuting with the 2002 vintage, ex-Cloudy Bay winemakers James Healy and Ivan Sutherland have been fashioning some of Marlborough’s finest wines under their label Dog Point.”

Like Nick Nobilo, they knew the best terroir from which to make their wine, as Ivan Sutherland already owned it – part of his 196 acres of Marlborough vineyard. Section 94 is made from Sauvignon Blanc grown in a specific area of the vineyard. The title Section 94 dates back to an early survey of Marlborough, and in particular the subdivision of the vast Hawkesbury Run which at that time encompassed an area of 6878 acres, 7 roods and 5 perches.

The vineyard for Section 94 are the oldest plantings on the clay silt of the valley floor where the Brancott valley joins the Wairau valley. The heavy soils result in Sauvignon Blanc with more depth and richness those grown on the gravelly sites.

Grapes are all hand picked and given extended barrel ageing with minimal racking and handling. It’s a non-interventionist, natural Sauvignon Blanc.

Section 94 is always one of New Zealand’s very best Sauvignon’s, arguably the best, and this 2009 vintage is the best they’ve made. With deep, concentrated fruit and beautifully integrated complexity from barrel fermentation, this is delicious now, but will improve with careful cellaring through to 2016.

Mountford Chardonnay 2007

94/100 Bob Campbell MW “This is a very stylish wine indeed”

“Rich yet elegant Chardonnay with layers of appealing flavours including peach, grapefruit, toasted nut, bran biscuit, mineral and classy oak. Generous sweet fruit and alcohol warmth add appeal and a touch of decadence. This is a very stylish wine indeed.” Bob Campbell MW

“Pinot Noir and Chardonnay were the first varieties to show promise (in Waipara), as Mountford has shown, and the likes of Pegasus Bay are now also producing crisp, flinty Rieslings.” Jancis Robinson MW

We’ve been in love with the wines of Mountford Estate since championing their early 1999 vintage. They have unique character and class resulting from owners’ Kathryn Ryan and Kees Zeestraten commitment to quality, the talents of blind winemaker CP Lin and of course their exceptional terroir.

The 18 year old vineyard is set on a hillside on an area of land dubbed ‘The Golden Mile’ in Waipara, North Canterbury. A high amount of heat and light, combined with the soil make-up of clay on top of marl with active limestone deposits, are just some of the reasons for the site being selected.

The grapes are hand harvested into small bins clone by clone, and the wine made with Burgundian methods by CP Lin. As Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate says “There are winemakers and then there is the one and only CP Lin. Whatever you may think, it is always exciting to open a bottle of Mountford and New Zealand needs people like CP.”

The grapes are is gently whole bunch pressed on champagne cycle straight into French oak barrels for fermentation. The wine is aged on lees for 18 months in these barriques and lightly filtered before bottling.

Mounford’s Chardonnay is always a serious contender for New Zealand’s most concentrated and complex, and this 2007 is one of their best. It’s wonderful now at four years old, but will continue to improve with careful cellaring through to at least 2015.

Quartz Reef Bendigo Pinot Noir 2008

94/100 Bob Campbell MW “This is a top-flight Pinot Noir”
92/100 Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate “an age-worthy Pinot”
Five Star Label – Michael Cooper’s Buyers Guide “A bold, fleshy, generous red.”
Five Stars – Raymond Chan’s Wine Reviews “Another classical, ageworthy Bendigo Pinot Noir”

“This is a top-flight pinot noir showing concentration that’s impressive from a vintage that produced many lighter than usual wines. It reinforces my belief that Bendigo is a great Central Otago sub-region that’s destined to succeed in vintages where others are less successful. It has a rich, silken texture with dense plum, black cherry and spice flavours. It’s easy to appreciate now but shows good cellaring potential.” Bob Campbell MW, Gourmet Traveller Wine

“This appears an age-worthy Pinot that could get a whole lot better. I’d recommend drinking it 2012 to 2016+.” Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate

“A bold, fleshy, generous red. Deeply coloured, it is rich and sweet-fruited with fresh, strong plum and cherry flavours, a hint of liquorice, subtle oak and fine supple tannins.” Michael Cooper’s Buyers Guide 2011

Rudi Bauer is one of New Zealand’s finest winemakers; named 2010 New Zealand Wine Maker of the Year at the Royal Easter Show Wine Awards as well as the first New Zealander to be nominated for Der Feinschmecker Wine Awards (the ‘Oscars’ of wine) in Germany as International Wine Maker of the Year .

He won Central Otago’s first gold medal for Pinot Noir in 1991 at Rippon, and has a deep understanding of what makes great Central Otago Pinot and great Central Otago terroir.
In his search for the best Pinot site, he discovered what is now the Quartz Reef Bendigo Estate Vineyard; Rudi knew that this site was unique and that exceptional wines would be made from fruit grown there.

Planted on New Zealand’s largest quartz deposit, the north-facing vineyard is situated to absorb the heat of the sun and the heat retaining properties of the quartz soils store and reflect this heat increasing the ripening of grapes in the cool Central Otago climate.

As Lisa Perotti Brown MW says in Robert Parkers Wine Advocate; “Well-travelled, having worked vintages in Burgundy, California and various vineyards around New Zealand including a stint at Rippon, Austrian born Rudi Bauer knew exactly what he’d struck upon when he targeted a 15 hectare site in Bendigo mainly on north facing slopes. Where there once was gold in them there hills, there’s now the liquid kind. Established in 1996, the focus at Quartz Reef is on high quality Pinot Noir and sparkling wines made in the traditional method, though they also make a very good Pinot Gris. I’ve got a real soft spot for Rudi’s winemaking, which is both understated and powerful.”

Rudi manages his special site using biodynamic wine growing practices. He hand picks the fruit, then makes his wine very much in keeping with the traditional practices from the old world with partially wild yeast fermentation, then 14 months maturation in 28% new French oak barrels.

The result is one of New Zealand’s finest Pinots, a wonderfully dark, deep, taut wine now, it will greatly reward careful cellaring through to 2016 and beyond.

Man O’ War Dreadnought Syrah 2009

GOLD MEDAL – Decanter World Wine Awards
GOLD MEDAL – International Wine Challenge
5 Stars Decanter Magazine “Wonderful nose…the palate has dense, firm fruit”
5 Stars Bob Campbell MW “It has a great texture and extraordinary power.”
5 Stars Jane Skilton MW “Powerful dense wine that is surprisingly silk and generous”
5 Stars Michael Cooper “Built for the long haul”

“One of the most exciting wines I have tasted in the past 12 months.” Oz Clarke, UK.

“Stunning wine with a heady perfume that includes lovely floral notes. Very elegant red with ripe berryfruit flavours interwoven with Oriental spices. It has a great texture and extraordinary power.” Bob Campbell MW

This is one of the best Syrah’s produced in New Zealand, thanks to a combination of the Spencer family’s single-minded determination to make iconic New Zealand wines, the winemaking talents of Duncan McTavish, an excellent vintage and an exceptional hillside vineyard.

Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate describes them perfectly; “Located on the picturesque Waiheke Island, Man O’ War is located on the eastern side of the island on a choice parcel of land on the 4,500 acres farm owned by the Spencer family. With such expansive land, it is akin to a Burgundy vigneron gifted the choice of plots in the Cote de Nuits, and they have focused upon their steepest land, up to 45 degrees and their unique, volcanic Stony Batter Clay Loam soil. Their reds were very impressive.”

Dreadnought Syrah is sourced from their steepest hillside vineyard. Fruit is hand harvested, and fermented in small open top fermenters, hand-plunged twice per day. Following an average of three weeks on skins the wines were gently pressed to oak barrels where the wine matured for 15 months.

Dreadnought is midway between the ‘bold’ Le Sol style and the ‘beautiful’ La Collina in style. Dark, dense and layered, with a lovely balance between rich black fruits and spicy perfume. For such a concentrated wine it’s remarkably supple, delicious drinking now, but will continue to improve through to 2017.

“I also managed to taste a selection of currently released wines and was impressed by most. The highlight was an absolutely stunning Dreadnought 2008 Syrah $45.99 from the vineyard depicted below.” Bob Campbell MW

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